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Spyder
There are a lot of different kinds of Spyders on the market, but they are all either pneumatic or electronic.  All of the Spyders break down pretty much the same way and encounter the same problems.

• Not recocking

• Bolt "jamming" forward

• Paintballs breaking in the marker

• Leaks
   

• CO2 is low or cold.
• Lack of oil on striker and bolt. I don't know how many markers come into the store that we put a drop or two of oil on and that ends up being the only problem.
• O-ring on striker. While you've got the internals out, you might as well replace the two O-rings on the upper bolt.  On the newer Spyders, every
  O-ring is just like the CO2 O-rings.
• "Bumper" that usually is behind the striker but in front of the velocity adjustment piece is in the wrong place. We find this bumper gets put in a little too early alot of times and ends up in front of the exhaust valve pin, keeping the striker from striking it.
• Gold set screw that holds the main valve in place has vibrated it's way loose. The two screws that hold the grip to the body of the marker have to be removed to gain access to the gold set screw. This screw must be hand tight and be holding the valve in place.
• The two screws that hold the grip to the body of the marker may have vibrated their way loose. The sear, which resides in the grip, locks the striker back as it is blown back. cannot lock it back if the two screws that hold the grip to the body of the marker are loose.
• (Electronic Markers) Battery can be low.
• (HP, 'Compressed air/Nitrogen', tank users) Orings on the top bolt AND the striker need to be replaced more often. Compressed air is a less dense gas than CO2, so the gas needs the help of fresh orings to blow the bolt back and recock it behind the sear.

On the older Spyders, the only O-ring that is not like a CO2 O-ring is the one on the striker, which is generally the one that goes bad. The striker O-ring has to be urethane (white), as black O-rings swell when brought in contact with CO2 and will cause the striker to drag.

Usually, the only other thing that will keep the Spyder from recocking is the valve being put in backwards, but this will generally be accompanied by a huge leak.
 

Ball detent is missing. You should be able to stick your pinky in the body of the Spyder, where the barrel usually screws into, (marker needs to be cocked), and feel a little rubber nubbin which is your ball detent. This nubbin's job is catch the paintball and hold it in place until the air shoots it out. If the nubbin is missing balls will feed in continuously causing them to get smashed, shoot two or three at a time, or just roll out of you barrel.  Barrel is gouged, easy to check. Balls are bad or too big of bore for barrel. You should be able to push a paintball into your barrel and blow it out. If the paintball falls thru your barrel or does not blow out, try using a different kind of paintball.

These are the most common causes of ball breakage, but by no means, an all inclusive list. There are tons of factors that could be causing paintballs to break, but you should check the above listed first.
 

Cup seal is worn or has debris on it, keeping it from sealing against the valve. Gain access to the valve assembly by unscrewing the plug underneath the barrel or taking the screw out of the CA adapter (in the Compact, SE, or TL, which will also include taking off the shroud on the latter two), and out will come a spring, valve guide (resembles a star), cup seal and stem. Examine the seal, clean it off, look down inside the marker, use a Q- tip to clean off front of valve. Replace valve assembly and screw on air to see if leak is gone. If not, repeat procedure but replace the white cup seal.

• Cup seal is loose. Tighten cup seal down to stem by screwing it tighter.
• Valve guide (star) is bent. Replace
• O-rings on valve are bad. This is the most time consuming problem a Spyder can incur, and even this isn't too bad. You have to disassemble the entire marker, even taking off the grip assembly to gain access to the gold screw which holds the valve in place. After taking all of the rear components and front components out, use a long straight object, such as a straight shot squeegee, to push the valve out. The valve does have a front and a back so notice how it comes out. The large opening with the surface that doesn't protrude out as much is the front or faces out like the barrel. The small opening that protrudes out more is the rear. Replace the O-rings, reassemble the marker and see if the leak is gone. This is usually the last thing you'll try to fix a leak. If even this doesn't fix your leak, there may be a imperfection on the valve where the cup seal comes in contact with, the large opening. Take the valve and rub it in a figure 8 on an emery cloth that is sitting on glass and this will help to smooth out any imperfections on the face of the valve.

Spyder doesn't do anything when trigger is pulled.

Sear won't release.  The pin in the trigger assembly that the sear rests on has developed a flat spot. The pin needs to be knocked out and either turned to the other side or replaced. Sometimes this problem can be caused by the sear spring, but more often than not, its the pin.


If your particular problem was not answered, please feel free to call us at  (405) 936-0606. 

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